As you might have already discovered, the blog centers around old trains and finescale modelling and random rants.
Please drop a comment if you have an opinion on the blog or anything else for that matter!
Og dette gjelder spesiellt mine venner fra Norsk MJ-forum!
Regards, Håvard
Remembrance Of Trains Past 
Donna Dericco
I Googled for something completely different, but found your page…and have to say thanks. nice read.
Hello Havard, I have enjoyed your posts on the Westlake forum for awhile now and just found your own site here. Very nice! I really am impressed with your careful, very detailed work. Please excuse this message to your site regarding your question to the forum, it was the only means I found to contact you.
On the forum you asked about gluing glass slides for windows. I have had some success using a thicker cyanoacrylate applied to the sill with a fine wire. Some people have had problems with a white “film” using CA. I have rarely had that happen, but when it did, it was easily wiped off the glass. (Test this for yourself first)
Thinned Elmer’s white glue (not waterproof), Aleene’s Tacky Glue (fairly water resistant) or Weldbond (very water resistant) applied to the sill with a fine brush have also worked well and provide a longer working time. Any small blobs can be smoothed with a toothpick and a little alcohol. Those adhesives also provides a little cushioning for the glass as well. http://reviews.orientaltrading.com/0713/48_5211/aleenes-original-tacky-glue-reviews/reviews. htm://www.weldbond.com
I have not tried, but think that using an adhesive acrylic caulk would also work well. You can get it in various brands and colors including clear and black: http://www.amazon.com/18126-Black-Acrylic-Silicone-10-1-Ounce/dp/B001CEMV78
This particular caulk also has silicon which could create problems for painting, but if all the other painting were done before, and the black caulk applied as the last step it might even look like the rubber gasket for locomotive windows. A dab of caulk can be squeezed onto a scrap of plastic and applied in fine layers if need be with a fine brush dipped in water. Bill Gill
Hello again, Havard, Your questions on the Westlake Forums about the limits of brass casting caught my attention. I have been stumped for quite awhile trying to create a sign (HO scale) for the front of a building on my layout. The sign should have raised letters, in a script font and the letters should have a rounded face to them – so flat laser cut letters won’t work.
I am trying to contact “Narrowgauger” BernardS on the forum to ask his advice at possibly trying to cast the sign in brass, but have not been able to find an address for him (I am not a member of any forum, so cannot access that information) Can you please forward this message to him so that he can contact me if he is interested in assisting on the project? Thank you (And your mineral wagons, like all of your models, are going to look great!) Bill Gill
Håvard-
I am also modeling a soapstone operation, and have admired your work at RR-L, the Westlake forums, and in NG&IRM. I post progress on my website. Hope you will find time to check it out sometime.
Håvard- Mostly I have followed your work on the Westlake Forum. It s inspiring to see how far you are willing (and able) to go in pursuit of attaining the degree of craftsmanship and detail that you want. Thanks for pushing the envelope so far. Bill Gill
Thanks for the kind words! Sorry for responding so late, due to very little traffic on the blog I do not check for comments very often. I will forward your request to Bernhard. But you might have better luck contacting a casting service directly. David Sciacca of Valley Brass & Bronze did a great job with my castings: http://www.tracksidedetails.com/